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The beautiful city of Cuzco was once the foremost city of the
Inca Empire and is now the undisputed archaeological capital of the
Americas. Massive Inca-built walls line the city's central streets and
form the foundations of both colonial and modern buildings.
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Los Ninos Hotel
The hotel we stayed at comes with a story. It was set up in
1997 by a Dutch woman to support local homeless street children in Cuzco.
It has been very successful and the profits from the hotel and a sister
hotel provide for the food health and educational needs of over 500
children. The hotel is located about 10 minutes walk from the Plaza de
Armas. A colonial building with an attractive courtyard gives the
hotel a wonderful feeling of space and tranquillity. Rooms are simple but
very pleasant and named after some of the first children the charity
helped. We really enjoyed staying here and could not imagine anything
better in Cuzco.
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Around Cuzco
Four Inca ruins are situated close to Cuzco - Sacsayhuaman,
Qenko, Puca Pucara and Tambo Machay.
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Tambo Machay
This is the site furthest from Cuzco and consists of a
beautifully wrought ceremonial stone bath channelling crystalline spring
water fountains that still function today. Speculative theories link the
site to an Inca water cult.
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Puca Pucara
Just across the main road from Tambo Machay is the commanding fortress
structure of Puca Pucara with wonderful views down the Cuzco valley.
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Qenko
Lower down the hillside is the shrine of Qenko. It consists of a large
limestone rock riddled with niches, steps, extraordinary symbolic
carvings and channels. These channels were probably used for the blood
from ritual sacrifices.
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Sacsayhuaman
These immense ruins of both religious and military
significance are the most impressive in the immediate Cuzco area. About
20% of the original structure remains since many walls were torn down to
build houses in Cuzco, leaving the largest and most impressive rocks
forming the main battlements.
The most striking feature is the magnificent, three tiered
zigzag
fortifications - one stone estimated to weigh more than 300 tonnes. The
Incas envisioned Cuzco in the shape of a puma with Sacsayhuaman as the
head and these 22 zigzagged walls form the teeth the of the puma. We
came to the site later on in the afternoon. The sun was setting and
casting a set of wonderful shadows across the battlements.
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Sacred Valley
The beautiful Urubamba valley, popularly called El Valle Sagrado or the
Sacred Valley runs north west from Cuzco and was one of the agricultural
power houses of the Inca Empire with a pleasant sheltered climate and
fertile soil.
We spent two days touring through the Valley enjoying
the wide open skies and the amazing Inca ruins.
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Ollantaytambo
The village of Ollantaytambo is dominated by the massive Inca fortress
above. The spectacular steep terraces of the Inca complex mark one of
the few places where the conquistadors lost a major battle. As well as a
fortress the site was also used as a temple, with huge blocks of stone
transported to the top of the terracing. The massive rocks were quarried
6km away and transported to the site by the sweat and bloods of
thousands of Indian workers.
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Pisac
Market
For most of the week, Pisac is a quiet rural Andean village. The village
however comes to life on Sunday when the weekly market takes over the
town. Locals, many traditionally dressed, travel for miles, bringing
local produce and colourful artisan crafts.
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Inca Pisac
High above Pisac lies a truly spectacular collection of Inca citadels
with agricultural terracing sweeping around the flanks of the mountain
in huge and graceful curves. Above the terraces we followed a cliff
hugging footpath complete with massive stone doorways, steep stairs and
short tunnel carved out of the rock.
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Salinas
Near the village of Tarabamba lies an area of thousands of salt pans
that have been used for salt extraction since Inca times. A hot
spring from the top of the valley discharges a small stream of heavily
salt-laden water which is diverted into salt pans and evaporated to
produce a salt used for cattle licks.
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Moray
Having seen pictures of the deep amphitheatre-like terracing of Moray
before we came to Peru on a television programme we were keen to visit
this site. Different levels of concentric terraces are carved into a
huge bowl, each layer of which apparently has its own microclimate,
according to how deep into the bowl it is. It is speculated that the
Incas used the site as a crop laboratory to determine optimal conditions
for each species. The bowl had been planted with various potato
varieties as a kind of living museum. |
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